Devni Mori: A Historical Buddhist Site In Gujarat

Terracotta head of Buddha Devnimori

Excavations at Devni Mori, 2 km from Shamlaji in  the Aravalli district in northern Gujarat, have revealed a treasure trove of architecturally and sculpturally rich Buddhist remains that include a Buddhist monastery dating back to 3rd-4th century AD. The excavations at this archaeological importance also yielded various artifacts, such as terracotta statues, inscribed caskets, pottery, and  coins. 

Devni Mori has been submerged under the waters of the Meshwo reservoir since the 1970s.Today, a Buddhist flag is hoisted on a pole in the middle of the reservoir which came into being due to the construction of the Meshvo dam in the late 1960s. The flag marks the location where the stupa once stood.  

The excavation at the site was carried between 1960 and 1963 under the supervision of R N Mehta,  S. N. Chaudhary and B Subbharao.

The relic casket of Devnimor

The discovery of the stupa in Shamlaji is a testament to the influence of Buddhism in the area during the early period of the Christian era. The discovery of cascade containing relics of the Buddha from the stupa has further enhanced the sacredness of the stupa and the place of pilgrimage for the Buddhists. The inscription on the casket says that it contains sacred ashes of Buddha.

Somapura Mahavihara, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

                    First level plinth at Somapura Mahavihara/Image source

One of the famous Buddhist monasteries in ancient India, Somapura Mahavihara, the remains of which are located at the Paharpur archaeological site in the Naogaon district of Bangladesh, was built by the second Pala ruler Dharmapala (r. 770- c.810). The Pala rulers were great patrons of Buddhism and built several monasteries. 

Somapura Mahavira is one of the best few preserved Buddhist monasteries to survive the Muslim invasions under Afghan military chief Ikhtiyar- al-Din Muḥammad Bakhtiyar Khalji, popularly known as Bakhtiyar Khilji.

The other famous Buddhist monastery of Vikramshila (in the Bhagalpur district of Bihar), built by Dharampala, was destroyed by Bakhtiyar Khilji. Missions sent from Vikramshila monastery resulted in the establishment of Vajrayana form of Buddhism in Tibet in 11th century AD.

Nagarjunakonda: Relics of the Past

                                        Nagarjunakonda|Wikimedia Commons

If you travel 170km southeast of Hyderabad and then take a 45-boat ride over the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir on the Krishna river, you will discover the island of Nagarjunakonda, littered with the remnants of wonderful Buddhist structures. Located in the state of Andhra Pradesh, Nagarjunakonda was visited by seventh century AD Chinese pilgrim Hiuen Tsang in 640 AD. 

Before the construction of Nagarjuna Sagar Dam in 1960, Nagarjunakonda, which is spread over an area of 144-acre, was the top of a hill. In order to save several Buddhist structures such as stupa, chaitya, viharas that ran the risk of being submerged due to creation of Nagarjuna Sagar dam, they were reassembled on this hill.

One of the Buddhism’s most visited sites, Nagarjunakonda is named after famous Buddhist philosopher Nagarjuna, who is credited to have introduced Buddhism to Andhra Pradesh in the 2nd century AD. Tradition has it that it was at Nagarjunakonda or Nagarjuna’s hill where, Nagarjuna, an authority on the Mahayana form of Buddhism, propounded the world famous Buddhist philosophy of Sunyata (the Void). A contemporary of Kanishka, Nagarjuna wrote Madhyamika Karika which forms the basic text of the Madhyamika (Intermediate), one of the two philosophical schools of Mahayana Buddhism, other being Yogacharya.  

Places of interest in Nagarjunakonda

The most striking structure in Nagarjunakonda is the Mahastupa which is said to contain a bone relic the Buddha. In its current shape, the stupa reaches a height of 18 meters and has a diameter of 32.3 meters. It is the most massive structure in Nagarjunakonda.

Sarnath: Where the Buddha delivered his first sermon

                                     Dhamekh Stupa, Sarnath|Wikimedia Commons

Located 10km north of Varanasi, the famous site of Sarnath in Uttar Pradesh is a Buddhist site not to be missed. It was at Sarnath where in Deer Park the Buddha delivered his first sermon after the attainment of enlightenment under the tree of wisdom at Bodh Gaya. The event of his deliverance of first sermon at Sarnath is known in the Buddhist tradition as the turning of the wheel of Sacred Law or “Dharmachakra Privartan”. 

Painting of the Buddha's first discourse, turning the Dharmacakra; Circa 700-1100 CE; Sanskrit Astasahasrika Prajnaparamita Sutra manuscript written in the Ranjana script; Nalanda, Bihar, India. Image source: Wikimedia Commons

The Buddha journeyed to Sarnath to preach his first sermon to those five ascetics who were his disciples but had left him in disgust when they found that the Buddha became convinced that rigorous self mortification is not the way to obtain final bliss. These five ascetics were so impressed by Buddha’s sermon that they became his disciples once again and stopped practising austerities. 

In contrast to the hustle and bustle of hectic Varanasi, Sarnath, previously known as Isipatana, is a serene place where one can wander around the grassy gardens and explore the Buddhist ruins.

Places to see in Sarnath 

Dhamekh Stupa 

The most important highlight of a trip to Sarnath is the Dharmekh Stupa, a major tourist attraction in India. Dating back to the 3rd century AD, the stupa, which is now in ruins, is impressive at 31.3 meter high, and 28.3 in diameter. It marks the spot where the Buddha is said to have delivered his first sermon.

Ashoka Pillar 

Erected by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC, the Ashoka Pillar at Sarnath is an important attraction in Sarnath. The splendid lion capital which was once placed on top of the pillar can be seen in the Sarnath Archaeological Museum which also possesses some of the most beautiful images of the Buddha. The capital has been adopted by India as its national emblem. 

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Barabar Caves: Oldest Surviving Rock-cut Caves in India

Barabar Caves/Wikipedia Commons

Apart from the stupas, caves are the main architectural remains of the period preceding the Gupta dynasty which was founded in the first half of the fourth century AD. The earliest and most prominent among these artificial caves, excavated for religious purposes, are the Buddhist caves of Barabar, in the Jehanabad district of Bihar. 

Carved out from solid rocks, Barabar caves (located 25 km north of Gaya) were excavated by the greatest Mauryan emperor Ashoka for use by Buddhist monks in the 3rd century BC. However, two of the Barabar caves were also dedicated by him to the monks of Ajivika sect who were among the chief rivals of Buddhists. This goes on to show that the Ajivika sect enjoyed patronage of Ashoka and his successor Dasharatha who is also credited with the dedication of two caves in the Nagarjuni Hills, near Barabar, to the Ajivikas. 

The inner walls of the Barabar caves are finely polished. The workmen of these caves belonged to the school that was responsible for the polish of Ashokan pillars and inscriptions which he erected in the 3rd century BC in different parts of the country. 

The Miracles of Buddha in Shravasti

                   Anandabodhi tree in Jetavana monastery/Wikimedia Commons

It was at Shravasti or Sravasti where the Buddha is said to have performed feats of levitation and other miracles due to challenge from his rivals, though he disapproved their performance by his monks and disciples.

A major centre of Buddhist pilgrimage, Sravasti in Uttar Pradesh is known for being the place where the Buddha spent the major portion of his missionary life. In fact, he passed as many as 25 rainy seasons of life here. Needless to say, a large number of his sermons were delivered in Sravasti which served as the ancient capital of Kosala during the reign of king Presenajit. It ranked among the six main cities during the time of Buddha’s death. This can be ascertained form Buddha’s disciple Ananda’s disappointment t that his teacher should have chosen to die in Sravasti instead of a small place like Kusinagar. 

Sravasti finds mention in the travelogues of Fa-hsien who came to India in the fifth century AD to obtain authentic copies of the Buddhist texts. Though he found monasteries full of spiritual activities the city was losing its prosperity.  

Sravasti continue to be a Buddhist centre till the 9th century. However the place began to lose its importance and after the 12th century AD, nothing much is known about Sravasti. Excavations at this site have unearthed the remains of five brick-built monasteries together with a shrine and a stupa.

Places of attraction

Jetavana Vihara

Donated to Buddha by his devotee Sudatta or Anathapindika, a rich banker of Sravasti, this magnificent monastery consisted of a very large complex of buildings including dwelling rooms, bathrooms, halls of meditation and ponds. Anandabodhi tree and the Gandhakuti (Buddha's hut) are located within the site of Jetavana Vihara. 

Pubbarama Vihara

The second most spiritually important monastery in Sravasti was Pubbarama on the premises of which was located magnificent two-storeyed building known as Migaramatupasada. The Buddha had spent six rainy seasons in Pubbarama monastery.

Rajakarama Vihara

This was built by king Presenajit who was a contemporary and devotee of the Buddha. Here Buddha is said to have preached the Nandakovida Sutta and several sermons contained in the Saihyutta Nikaya.

Other important places of attractions in Sravasti are Stupa of Angulimala (the notorious bandit who was converted by the Buddha from his evil ways), Place (Stupa) of the Twin Miracle.

Ghosrawan, Buddhist site in Bihar

10 km south east of Bihar Sharif (headquarters of the Nalanda district) in Bihar, Ghosrawan is a Buddhist site which was once a centre of Buddhism in ancient India. Several Buddhist structures including a life size statue of Khasarpana Avalokitesvara in a standing position have been discovered here. 

Kapotaka Vihara, a large monastery referred to and visited by Hiuen Tsang in the seventh century, is believed to have been located at Ghosrawan. The masterpiece of the attractions at Ghosrawan is a 10 feet Buddha statue carved out of gleaming black stone. This huge image is placed beside a tank.

Three km north of Ghosrawan is Tetrawan which is home to a large number of Buddhist relics including carved statues of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas.

 

Sugh: Buddhist Archeological site in Haryana

About 10 km north-east off district headquarters of Yamunanagar in Haryana, the sleepy village of Sugh was once a great centre of Buddhist learning in ancient India when the place attracted scholars who participated in philosophical debates.

According to the famous Chinese monk and scholar Hiuen Tsang who is believed to have visited the place in the 7th century AD, Sugh was a home to ten stupas and five monasteries.  Some of these were built by Mauryan emperor Ashoka. These stupas contained the ashes of the Buddha and his distinguished disciples, Sariputta and Moggallana. 3 kilometres north-west of Sugh is located the Chaneti  stupa .  

The archeological site of Sugh, which was known as Shrughna in ancient times, was first identified by Alexander Cunningham. Shrughna was also a famous centre of trade in ancient India. 

The nearest railway station to Sugh is Jagadhri Railway Station at Yamunanagar. Lying on the popular Amritsar- Kolkata railway route Jagadhri Railway Station is well connected via rail with major cities and places in India. You can board Golden Temple Mail from Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station in Delhi to reach Jagadhri Railway Station.